Sweden, Baltic Cruise, Netherlands

This was a trip we'd originally booked with Tom and Pam for 2020. We considered it again in 2021, but 1-week pre-boarding quarantine mandates were in place. We are so happy we could finally make this happen.

Since we would be boarding the cruise ship in Stockholm, it made sense to add a couple of days to the trip to see some ancestral sites, as Tom and Pam both have ancestors that immigrated from Sweden. I've been doing genealogy research since 2015, and this was an opportunity to do a deeper dive in preparation. I spent many hours researching, and through research and luck (for example, by reaching out to Swedish public officials related to a farm locations, I got connected to one of Tom's present-day 2nd cousins) I connected to current family members on Tom's maternal grandfather's side and his maternal grandmother's side. I was also able to get GPS coordinates for Pam's paternal great-grandfather's farm in Granna.

The first few days were a bit of a marathon. We landed in Stockholm at 8 AM local, took a taxi to get our rental car, then drove 4 hours to Grums, arriving at 1:40 just in time to meet Tom's 2nd cousin on his grandfather's side, Ulrica, at 2 PM at our hotel. She guided us to the Grums church to see the burial site of Tom's great-grandparents Jan Janson and Anna Lisa Jonsdotter. Then she guided us to her home, which is on the ancestral farm where grandpa Axel was born and grew up. We were surprised to have a total of 18 family members there eager to greet us. We had a lovely time in the loft of the family barn where Axel once milked cows. We had marvelous conversations with the inter-generational kin. To our benefit, most of them spoke very good English, and if not, there was a young person nearby who could interpret. The young adults wanted to know about high-deductible health plans and if all Americans owned guns. When we offered that anyone could visit us in Minnesota, they politely professed a greater interest in visiting New York or Los Angeles. We enjoyed fabulous coffee and smørrebrød, and debated the right way to make rice pudding. 

Gravestone at Grums for ancestors Jan Janson and Anna Lisa Jonsdotter

Gathering at the family farm, Halla

Some of the cousins

2nd Cousins Tom & Ulrica

What a spread. Amazing coffee

Our common ancestors, at the Halla farm. Tom's great-grandparents Jan Janson and Anna Lisa Jonsdotter in front. Grandpa Axel on far left

The next morning we drove 1.25 hours to Tocksfors, to meet Tom's 2nd cousin, Ann Marie, on his maternal grandmother Helen's side. To our astonishment, when we arrived at Ann Marie's house at 10 AM, there were 39 family members there eager to meet us, many of whom had driven many hours to be there. They served fika, with coffee and a large variety of home-baked cookies and buns. We met Helen's nephew Kalle, 87 years old, and the last of his generation. We worked our way from room to room, meeting and talking with people, and again getting some translation help from the younger people. The preparation and quality of their coffee was a big topic. We learned they prefer Arabica, and don't be skimpy! They showered us with little gifts like bracelets they'd strung, a folk music CD recorded by a relative and crocheted coasters in the colors of the Swedish flag. When we left, we were a bit jet-lagged and exhausted but so grateful for the opportunity we had to connect with them. We kept marveling that connecting to these two cousins via email resulted in these kind efforts to meet us. What unbelievably wonderful people. 

With Kalle, 87 year-old cousin

2nd Cousin and host Ann Marie

Another amazing spread, and coffee

Great conversations

Common ancestors, Tom's great-grandparents Aron Olsson and Anna Magnusdotter, Tocksfors

Tocksfors church

That afternoon we drove another 4 hours to get to Granna, arriving about 6 PM and buying the ubiquitous peppermint sticks then getting dinner by the lakefront after checking in to our charming hotel, Amalia Hus.

The Amalia Hus breakfast was AMAZING

Granna church

We stopped at a local grocery for some Swedish specialties, then put the ancestral farm GPS coordinates into the phone and made our way on increasingly narrower dirt roads until eventually arriving at a place that had an old house that looked like it might be used part time like a cabin. Pam's great grandfather August Johannesson (became Johnson) lived here before immigrating to America at age 26 in 1868. His wife Josephine grew up in Horn nearby and immigrated in 1869 at age 23. They married in Owatonna, MN.

Ancestral farm of August Johnson- we understand this structure is more recent

Pam's great-grandparents Josephine and August Johnson (front). Pam's grandfather Albin Johnson on far right

We then drove about an hour to the Gamla Linkoping open air museum, which was really cool, then drove another 2.5 hours to Stockholm. We dropped Tom and Pam at the Victory hotel, then Andy and I returned the rental car and walked back a couple miles to the hotel. On Tues morning, Andy and I took a self-guided walking tour of Gamla Stan (Stockholm's old town). 

Stockholm

Stockholm

At noon we all took a taxi to the cruise port for our 1 PM boarding time on the Norwegian Dawn. Getting 2,400 people on a boat is always an ordeal, as this was. Getting wheelchair assistance sped us through part of the process, but also meant we had 5 pieces of luggage to manage ourselves. We also had to wait around on the boat, with the luggage, until our rooms were ready at 3.

Happy hour

Norwegian Cruise route

Our first port was Helsinki. We visited the cathedral and market together, then Andy and I went on to the National History Museum.

Helsinki Cathedral

Helsinki Market

Next was Kotka, Finland, which was the new stop replacing St Petersburg on the itinerary because of Russia's attack on Ukraine in 2022. We got coffee together in the market square, then Andy and I caught a bus to the Czar's Imperial Fishing Lodge, then walked in the water garden.

Coffee in Kotka

Kotka Water Garden

Czar's Imperial Fishing Lodge, Kotka

Visby is on the Swedish island of Gotland and still has many of its medieval walls in place, and a beautiful cathedral on the top of a mountain.

Visby Cathedral

Visby

Visby

Next was Tallinn, Estonia. Tom and Pam stayed on the boat, Andy and I enjoyed the great old town and medieval walls. This turned out to be one of our most favorite stops.

So many of Tallinn's walls are intact, and you can walk on sections

Cafe Maiasmokk, Tallinn

Nevsky Cathedral

Raeapteek- oldest continuously running pharmacy in Europe, opened 1422

Russian restaurant for lunch. I had sauerkraut soup, Andy had dumplings in mushroom sauce. Pickle platter with honey, which turned out to be a great combination, complementary horseradish vodka

In Riga, Latvia, we had a bus tour. Our guide Helen was very informative, and described what it was like to live under Soviet communism before Latvia achieved independence in 1991.

Town Hall Square, rebuilt after WWII

Gdansk, Poland

Andy arranged for a golf cart tour of Gdansk. What we didn't know is that actual Gdansk is about a 40 min drive from where the boat docks. Fortunately, our guide Noris, a former Cuban professional volleyball player, was willing to drive and pick us up (in her car, we got in the golf cart later). The golf cart tour was 2 hours, including a stop at St Bridget's Cathedral to see the amber alter. Gdansk was very badly damaged during WWII, so most of the buildings we saw were substantially repaired or reconstructed. The most memorable part was when the guide's planned route was blocked by sudden construction, and she had to drive us quickly in reverse the wrong way down a highway about 3 blocks, and kept saying "Don't look! Don't look!"

Our guide with Tom

Amber alter at St. Bridget's

The shipyard where the Solidarity movement started in 1980

Gdansk

Gdansk

Coffee break in Gdansk before catching an Uber back to the boat

The night I got 3 appetizers

Final night of Blackjack tournament. Both Pam and Andy lost

Warnemunde and Berlin

Andy and I caught a 7:58AM train that took us to Berlin (2.5 hour ride), where we had a quick 5 hours. We started at the Pergamon Museum (good thing Andy booked our tickets in advance or we would not have been able to get in). The Babylonian Gate was incredible. Next we went to the Berlin Dom (cathedral) and paid to climb the 267 steps to the top. We finished at the Gemaldegalerie, where there was a great collection of Dutch and Flemish paintings we loved. We arrived back in Warnemunde at 6 PM and didn't have to be on the boat until 8, so we had dinner overlooking the water.

Roman temple, Pergamon

Babylonian gate, Pergamon

Babylonian gate

Berlin Dom

Berlin Dom

View from top of Berlin Dom

Currywurst for lunch

Gemaldegalerie, Berlin

Warnemunde

Pork schnitzel in Warnemunde

Kiel, Germany

Our last port of call, and good thing, because there was nothing to do here. Andy had it in his mind that he could find some apple strudel somewhere, but even that was a bust.

Coffee in Kiel

Last day on the boat

Copenhagen to Den Bosch

Embarking on a cruise ship is hard, and so is disembarking. We had to be at the wheelchair assistance area with our bags at 6:50 AM. We shared a big taxi with another couple to the Copenhagen airport, flew the rapid flight to Amsterdam, picked up our Sixt rental car and drove about 1 hour to Den Bosch where the kids are living. Meg had cooked a lasagne dinner for us. We enjoyed two full days together, visiting Kasteel Heeswijk, the Hieronymus Bosch museum, a private canal boat tour, the Noordbrabants Museum, a steakhouse dinner and the cute town of Housden. 

Kasteel Heeswijk

Kasteel Heeswijk

Steak dinner

One of many coffee breaks

Another coffee break

Coffee and Bossche ball pastries

Lunch at Bolwerk

The market

Canal tour

A walk between coffee breaks

And another coffee break, another Bossche ball

Heusden

Heusden

Pannekoeken in Heusden

Heusden

We drove back to Amsterdam and stayed the night before our flight the next morning. I took a run that morning, and there was a large rainbow, which I took as a good sign.

We made it back safely, although we learned within a day or two that 3/4 of us had Covid. Fortunately, everyone recovered. What a wonderful trip.