Fudge

After seeing the new Wow Fudge stand at the MN State Fair (over 70 flavors), I was suddenly having daydreams of quitting my job and opening a fudge store, or maybe just seeking out a fudge apprenticeship. I watched videos of people stirring big copper kettles of fudge with what looked like small boat oars, or manipulating a thick layer of fudge on a marble slab. I imagined the smell, and the joy of people buying and eating fudge. I searched for bulk recipes for fudge businesses and didn't find anything (of course proprietors will guard these carefully) but I did see that a lot of places that sell fudge now do so using pre-packaged mixes, like from Calico Cottage. I'm not seeing that a lot of places sell genuinely homemade fudge anymore. I guess I understand why- the cooking process has to be managed to precise temperatures, and there is a big cash outlay in specialty equipment if you're going to prepare from scratch. 

I decided to try some fudge recipes at home and see what I could create. My first attempt was a recipe for Old Fashioned Salted Caramel Fudge. The recipe called for heating the mixture on the stove, stirring constantly until it reached the temperature of 240F. My batch was taking FOREVER to get to that temperature, and then it suddenly seized. I tried to "rescue" it following directions that call for adding water and bringing it up to soft-ball temperature again. Again, no luck. I tested my old analog candy thermometer using boiling water, and discovered it wasn't accurate. I threw it out and bought a new, fancy, 4-probe digital thermometer that Andy can also use for multiple meats in the smoker. 

Salted caramel fudge- gone terribly wrong

Next, I tried a recipe for pistachio "fudge," but this wasn't really fudge, because it was made with sweetened condensed milk, white chocolate chips, pistachios and Jell-O pudding mix, and you melted things together. It was alright. It did not have the texture of real, creamy fudge.

Pistachio "Fudge"

The Fannie Farmer Cookbook sounds like a reputable place to get a fudge recipe, so I tried that next.

Fannie Farmer Chocolate Fudge

• 4 Tbsp unsweetened cocoa powder
• 2 c sugar
• 3/4 c milk
• 2 Tbsp corn syrup
• 2 Tbsp butter
• 2 tsp vanilla

Oil an 8x8" pan. Combine the cocoa, sugar, milk and syrup. Bring to a boil over low heat, stirring slowly. Boil with a lid on for 2-3 min. Uncover and wash down the sides of the pan with a pastry brush dipped in water (I did this, it didn't do anything). Continue boiling slowly without stirring until it reaches 234F. Remove from heat, add butter without stirring. Cool until it is 110F (this took about 45 min). then add the vanilla and stir without stopping until it loses its gloss and thickens. Pour into prepared pan, let cool/solidify at room temperature.

I found this recipe made a pretty skimpy batch in the 8x8 pan, about 1/2" high. It was pretty creamy, but not especially chocolatey. Using the new digital thermometer was much better, and more precise.  I made this to bring on a trip to Palm Springs with my girlfriends, and it triggered a TSA bag check at the airport. Fortunately it was considered a solid and the agent let me keep it.

Next up, I tried the Old Fashioned Salted Caramel fudge again, this time with the new digital thermometer. It came out much better, but I'm beginning to realize that making fudge is much more time-intensive than recipes imply. When it says bring the mixture to 238F, they don't say that you stand there stirring it for 20 min before it gets there. And to cool to 105 took about 45 min. It did get good reviews at a holiday party I brought it to.

Be careful what size pan you choose- when the mixture boils it expands a lot

The  new thermometer in action

I thought I'd try a fudge that calls for chocolate rather than cocoa, and so I tried this recipe. Utter failure. It never set at all and had the consistency of soft frosting that you'd have to eat with a spoon. I had to throw it away.

The fudge on the left was pretty good. The fudge on the right had to be tossed